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How to Build a Greenhouse: Bootstrap Farmer High Tunnel Kit


hey everybody welcome back to another
nature’s always right episode today I’m gonna be showing you how I built my
bootstrap farmer greenhouse this is a 10 foot by 20 foot greenhouse all the parts
and plastic and the kit is from bootstrap farmer com if you don’t know
who they are they’re one of my favorite farm suppliers and I originally found
them because of their 1020 trains they have the best 1020 phrases that are
super strong I just love them so today I’m gonna be showing you guys how I put
this together the different trials and tribulations I had putting it together
and it’s a pretty detailed video so if you’re building a greenhouse yourself I
hope that you’ll be able to take a few things away not make as many mistakes as
I did and you know build the best possible greenhouse that you can so I’m
just going to show you really quickly the different features of it and then
we’ll get right into the building from beginning to end so the reason I
got this greenhouse is because it’s gonna allow me to really improve my farm
I’m gonna be able to get seedlings out really quick much earlier in the spring
and summer my seedings will germinate at a much higher percentage which is
allowing me to drop less seed in my soil blocks which keeps me from having to
thin them as much I’ll be able to do micro greens in here year-round and
control the temperatures I’m going to be experimenting with doing some grow bags
and selling nursery plants in them it’s a great place where I can store a lot of
different things and I’ve even got a lot more room in here that I can keep
developing you can see I’ve got a lot of vertical space still that I could fill
in with some different stuff so something else that’s really cool about
these greenhouses that they’re pretty modular this is 10 foot by 20 foot you
can make these as long as you want you just need more hoops and
you can make it a hundred foot long if you want so they’re really versatile you
don’t have to use this as a seedling area many people use greenhouses for their
field beds as well and I’m gonna be showing you guys how I update this thing
over the years and all the different ways that I’m going to be using it I’ll
be making a lot of different videos in here to help you guys figure out the
best way is to use the greenhouse and I really believe that having a greenhouse
on a farm even a small farm is a real necessity because it just gives you that
huge advantage to get ahead of the season and to just have your germination
perfect the ability to control temperature and climate is gigantic
there’s just going to give you a huge advantage for your farm also it helps
you to diversify so microgreens are a big part of small farming in my opinion
it allows you to diversify your crops make it a little bit less risky if
something in the field fails and you know microgreens are pumping out every
cent 7 to 10 days generating revenue for your business so I’m really excited to
add on that component to my business and show you guys kind of the journey that I
go through with it please put any comments or questions or anything down
in the comments and this is the first greenhouse that I’ve ever built so I
just want you guys to have confidence that if you’ve never done something like
this you can do it get some help from your friends and family you know don’t
don’t be scared to try to pull something off like this you can do it yourself –
basically all my construction experience and my life was done on most of it was
done on this farm building all of these things for the first time so I just want
to give you the confidence that you can do this too so because I’m always on the mindset of
keep it mobile you know I’m not gonna be on this land forever and I need to think
you know to do it as cheaply as possible and something that’s not gonna leave a
big mess when I leave and I kind of had the idea to maybe you know lay out some
pebbles so it helped the drainage and help it to make it easily level and if I
needed to make any adjustments with tables and stuff I could just push the
rocks out of the way and make it higher stuff for myself but I’m not gonna go to
that extra expense in trouble this is flat enough that it’s gonna be okay
and I can make little adjustments inside of the greenhouse I need to so we’re
just snugging in the landscaping cloth and then we’re using some land scape
staples to hold it down into the ground all right so the landscape fabric is all
laid out and the ground is fairly flat underneath so the very next step is to
lay out these ground posts here I got the ones that that are pre-drilled from
bootstrap so and I already made my mark so I made a mark at two feet and this is
gonna be the bottom so this bottom piece will be pounded into the ground and the
next step after that is we got to make it very level just be using a two-foot
level while we’re pounding it in and then to do the final leveling we’re
gonna be using a plumb line and I’ll show you guys how to do that okay so we
finally got the first four places where the posts are gonna go square and when
you’re making something square all the outer perimeter measurements need to be
exact and then both diagonal measurements need to be exact and that’s
the trickiest part is getting those diagonal measurements to be correct so
what we figured out worked really well was to get two of them perfect so you
know exactly six inches off the fence I exactly 10 inches and then to get the
right 90-degree angle you just keep adjusting these two flags and measuring
the diagonal and that helped us to really get the right measurements when
we were moving all four of them you can never get the right measurement but if
you keep two of them perfect and then go everything off that that seemed to work
really well so now the next step is we need to make holes in this fabric for
our ground posts and the best way to do that for landscaping fabric is to burn
it so that it just melts it and there’s no fraying edges like you’re seeing here
so I’m gonna take my propane tank and my torch and I’ve got a video all about
this and how I use it for weeding so I just drilled a one and three-quarter
inch hole put it over the top of the flag and then I’m just gonna burn it
really quickly yeah my god quick so in order to not
smash the pipe this thing is called a ground post driver so just goes in there
you hit that instead of the actual post and that it stays intact we’ve got the
poles driven in a little bit of the way and now we got to make sure the level is
good so you want to measure on both sides make sure that it’s level and as
he’s pounding and I’m gonna try to hold it in place since this is already low
level I want to make sure that these holes for the hip boards are running
this way the bottom boards have the screws running this way now let’s say
let the bubble you know is way over to the side and you needed it to move over
a really easy way to do it if the pipe isn’t that far down to the ground you
could just move it by hand but once it’s further down into the ground it’s – you
can’t actually make it budge so the technique that works good is as the
person’s hitting it you’re applying pressure in the direction that you need
it to move to become more level and then let them hit it and it’ll slowly move it
each hit so now that we’ve got our four main posts in the next step is to put in
the intermediary posts in between so to do that we’re gonna use a chalk line and
that’s just going to help give us a straight line to give us a exact
location for the next poles the other thing that we really need to do
correctly is these poles should be around two feet off of the ground and
that’s why we made those marks initially but that’s just kind of a guide because
of course the ground is a completely level
so what we’re gonna do as per the recommendation from Brandon at bootstrap
and their awesome video that shows how to build this what we’ll do is we’ll
pound in another secondary post right here that’s gonna run parallel to these
posts and we’ll tie a string to it at the two foot mark and then run a line
level across that so that when the lines running across we’ll be able to pound in
each of these Stakes at the same height regardless of the ground level our
strategy is to put the talk line down pound in the poles partially then get
more super exact two foot level pound the poles the rest of the way and then
we’re ready for the next step which is bending hoops so here’s our chalk line lined up we’ve
got one on each side so now what we’re gonna do is take our measurements every
four feet from this post and mark out where those gonna go on each side then
we can take measurements from each point where the posts should go and we should
be getting 10 feet at that measurement and we should end up equidistance from
this post to the end post and that’s how we’ll know if we laid this out straight
and correct then we can move on to the final step which is leveling the z-axis
of these so that they’re 2 feet off the ground ok so we’ve got all the poles
hammered in there in the right distance from each other we checked all the
measurements they’re 10 feet across and all that they’re four foot distance from
each other ok so here’s how you set up this line so you’re gonna want to make
your 2 foot mark at wherever your highest point pole is so for us this is
the highest point and it kind of slopes down this way we made a Sharpie mark at
two feet on both of the poles we put the string across and then laid out the
level the plane where we’re gonna be pounding down these posts needs to be at
the same level and that’s why we’re creating the string here so the thing is
the ground here is lower than that other post so even though we’re putting it at
two feet at that first mark it’s not actually level so here that’s the
original two-foot mark and here’s the correction mark I just kept moving the
string up my dad watched the level and I just kept moving the string up until it
became level and now we know that this string is now a level plane and we can
pound down our stakes to match the string at two feet the reason that we’re
creating this flat plane is that so the roof line is level otherwise if we
didn’t do this the roof would be sloped down in this direction okay so as you
can see they’re basically at the same plane it looks like they’re on alignment
except I think this one it’s probably about a half an inch too far this way
but I think what the tolerances on this you know there’s a little bit of give
and all that so it should not be a problem but we’ll find out at the end of
course that looks so good that’s perfect check that out we get it perfect and now
the next step is start bending hoops buying the top rail pieces so besides the cost of the kit from
bootstrap you’re going to need to get some things at the hinges some
self-tapping screws to connect all the hoos some carriage bolts some 2.5 inch
wood screws and then of course the most important piece is top-line fence post
here and this is one in 3/8 inch 10-foot long and these that we Bend into hoops
with the hoop barb and then place into these main posts here so I think I spent
about another $240 on all the other accessories in addition to the cost of
the kit so the total price comes out to about fourteen or fifteen hundred I
think for the ten by twenty greenhouse if you get the ground post and the kit
with all of the the wrap up sides and everything okay so now it’s time to bend
our top bars here and the first thing that you do is just make a nine inch
mark off of the I guess this is male end we’re doing it this way so that we in so
that we’re not bending this piece in correctly and it’s all very even I used
a piece of wood just make it all flush really easier for me and what I’m gonna
do is mark nine inches since I made them all flush like that I’m just going to
run my Sharpie all across here just has a shortcut and now let’s take
it over to the hoop endure yeah so this is my first one I’ve ever did I’ve ever
done and I think I put maybe too much curve near the end so I think what’s
happening in here is there’s just a little bit too much curve down at the
end of the pipe here so down this at this Park down here it needs to be a
little bit more straight not so much angle into it ok so now that I’ve made a
few mistakes and I made some hoops that are really good let me explain the best
way to do this so first you’re just gonna line up your mark the 9 inch mark
that we made and when you pull back obviously make sure it’s in the seam
pull it back we’re not gonna go all the way flush with the seam we’re just gonna
stop there it needs to be a much softer Bend when I’m making my low tunnel hoops
I do a full harder Bend but with this you don’t want to because of the ground
PO you’re gonna get forward 1.5 feet 18 inches do a bunch of gradual bends and
when it gets too hard you’ll want your bar you and then the last Bend you want
to leave a good 1.5 feet at the end I think and then leaving that lasts a
little bit helps the legs be straighter at the end for going into the poles so now you see how the the hoop goes
wide and out and then it kind of flares out a little bit that’s more what we’re
looking for and in the bottom like two and a half feet really doesn’t have any
bend in it and that’s what I found works the best so we’re going to say so because the ground is so wet right
now and we already screwed this pull-up we took it out hammered it back in prevent it from bowing out so what we
found works really good is my dad gets it into his side gets it to the 9 inch
mark and then I get my side and then bend it and shove it in definitely pull
it towards you don’t push it because if there’s a lot of tension even if I slip
it’s gonna hit me really hard this is definitely the safest way and now as I’m
bending it back it’s having a much straighter position whereas before when
I before I fix the bend this would be bending inwards more just wouldn’t work there we go so it still has good tension
but not so much that I’m just like standing here like absolutely struggling
to get it in this is really nice so that was the fix ok so you know it’s not
completely perfect but yeah it’s good enough that it’s gonna work really well
and you know to prevent that you want to make sure that you’re bending your bars
super consistently each time at the same exact point and that’s just going to
give you the best hoops but you know check that out it’s is the first screen
house that we’ve ever built so I don’t know I’m pretty happy once we get it all
built together I’ll really know how you know how perfect it needs to be but I
thought we’ve got everything perfectly aligned and in there now we’re gonna be
connecting the ground post to our hoops and we’re using the 5/16 screws that
bootstrap gave us so we’re using a 5/16 drill bit going through throwing the
bolt in okay so now what we’re doing is putting
down the baseboards for the baseboards you can use one by sixes all the
different parts and pieces I’m just gonna ask you to refer to the bootstrap
for more instructions but I use just some leftover fence posts just like
those right there I took them off on another section of fence and just
attaching them here these are also gonna be used for the hip boards as well just
trying to save money and recycle some things then I went out and I bought some
three inch hex screws or hex bolts you could use carriage bolts as well when I
make sure that the the board is flush with the end because this is where the
headboard will be and we need to have that be able to fit in there so it’s
flush on the ends where the boards join you just need to cut out another little
piece of wood join them together and go all the way down not sure what these
trusts things I don’t have any what they call these but that connect the top bar
here to the hoop and the rounded side will go over the bars and that’s go
across the bottom as you can see we put on the the front one and the back ones
first threaded it in then mounted these over the top of them depending on how
well you bent your hoops it came out pretty straight there’s a little bit of
crookedness into it but really good it’s gonna add that extra support that we
needed and so now the last thing before we completely cinch down those nuts up
there we need to make sure that the distance from hoop to hoop is four feet
and that’ll just ensure that everything is equidistant and no no part of the
structures receiving extra stress and it should be so getting it more perfect I
think is more it’s more important for people that are going to deal with high
winds or crazy weather snow and things like that if you’re in a place like me
that’s gonna be a little more protected then I think the perfection isn’t as
necessary but we’re doing the best that we can to get this as dialed in as
possible so what I’m doing is I’m measuring three feet off of the
and I’m making a mark that’s where the three-foot mark is now what we did to
save time since our border 7-inch seven half-inch is wide we seem to find the
halfway point which is 3.75 inches so if I just subtract subtract three point
seven five inches from 36 that’s going to give me the bottom of the board the
board will sit on here like this now we also need to drill into this pole so we
can attach our carriage bolts and attach the board so the center of the board at
30 to 36 feet that’s where our railing is gonna be for the wiggle wire so we
don’t want to put a bolt there so what I did is this measured about an inch and a
half above and that’s gonna be where our carriage bolt will go through so I’m
gonna do that for each one I’m measuring up thirty 33 point seven five inches
making my mark making a little slot for my dad to drill and moving down the line
then we’re gonna come back line up our board with our line our bottom mark line
drill through the wood and then attach it with the carriage bolt so I’m just
putting a small indentation with a very small drill bit to make it a lot easier
for my dad to come in with the big 5/16 drill bit and then go all the way
through okay so as you can see the boards are
not completely straight some of that’s gonna be fixed once we put the rail in
there it’ll pull it out and make it more straight this side looks good enough
that I don’t really need to adjust anything but here on this side you can
see there’s a major indentation there and that’s because those two hoops for
whatever reason are just inwards a little bit more you know when I put
these poles in they blew outwards a little bit more so just didn’t come out
completely perfect so you want to make sure to double check all their sense
from the hoop that they’re coming out about the same but it’s not be a problem
here’s my idea to fix it so since I’ve got some extra screw here I’m just gonna
push it out just in this one section and I’ll just use like a piece of wood just
like this and fit it in there and then that spacer now you can see straightened
it out a bunch and then the rail itself will help to straighten it out even more
not perfect but I think it’s gonna be good enough to work okay now for
attaching the side rails it’s really easy I’m using some number 8 1/2 inch
self tapping screws for this I’ve used half-inch screws for all the metal
connecting so for this you want to keep it basically level what I did at the
ends is I measure two four inches and then match it up to there and then I can
basically just eyeball the rest that’s why I’m doing this I start with one that
I’ve measured and then I just matched two it’s pretty easy now it’s also nice
because I’ve used these carriage bolts I use hex bolts this is really soft wood
so I was able to sync the bolts in so it’s just out of the way of the rail
system altogether so one thing that I would do differently that I want to
mention about these channels when you’re cutting them leave them a bit short
because as you can see when you take it all the way to the edge of the wood here
you know and you’re making it tight it can really scrape and cut into the
plastic so I was one little mistake that I I made so next time I’m gonna cut the
channel slightly shorter so here I’ve got my 3/4 inch conduit laid out and
bootstrap farmer gives you these couplers that connect them together so
you use some self-tapping screws like this to combine them I’m gonna let it
run you know to three inches beyond the back end of the greenhouse then on this
side it needs to actually extend and we need to extend it about a foot beyond
the greenhouse because the crank and everything is gonna be right here
cranking up the greenhouse up and down so I bought four of these three
quarter-inch EMT conduit and I bought one extra so that I could cut it for my
extensions and for the guide rail that I’m also gonna be making so I figured
about a foot extension on each side and then four feet for each guide rail and
that’ll be it so after making that one foot piece I just need to drill a hole
here so that this will fit inside in the bootstrap video he’s just a cut between
3/4 and 1 inch yeah so you want to cut in between the 3/4 and 1 inch mark those
put a mark here ok so now we got our extension pieces that are going to be
able to fit into the crank so now I’m going to cut to four-foot pieces and
these are going to be for the guideposts for the crank
I want it to bend right here move it move it down on the bar bender a little
bit more so that where I’m putting the pressure the actual bends going to
happen yeah that’s better that’s getting the effect that I want and I’m gonna do
it just a little bit more I need to think ahead make sure this can clear
this is over slightly and then I want to make sure that this is level they’ll
just help me to have a good guideposts there we go that’s it look like I ended
up just using a half-inch tapping screw to connect the half inch and three
quarter inch together this is a two by six by ten foot piece and I’m gonna
create a 40 inch wide door I’m gonna make it an extra wide door most home
doors are about three feet let’s give myself a little bit extra room just in
case so to do that I’m gonna find the center point of the board and then
measure 20 inches on each side and that way I’m cutting out the very center of
this and now I just want to connect these together this is the bottom board
in the back here with the side without the door so you just drill through your
ground post all the way through I pre attached my backing since I’ve got such
a small room back here attached ahead of time put together didn’t have a long
enough board so I just put them together like that so I’d have to go buy another
one just because it ended up being a little bit wider than 10 feet so the
next step here we need to put the channel
here all the other side and also the railing down here as well so we’re going
to go ahead and do that so here’s all the channels look now and you can kind
of see V&R screws I put in how that’s looking so I was left with a little bit
of overhang here on my pipe so I’m just going to cut it and then wire brush it
so that it’s smooth plastic okay so at this point the greenhouse is basically
done and I just need to add plastic and one more thing I have to build out the
front door and right now I’m by myself and I’m waiting for my dad and my friend
Bryan to come over to help me finish some oil these tables inside because I
don’t want to fully build out my door until I get all those big tables in
there because one of my tables is four foot wide so what I’m gonna do just
before I put on the plastic is set up the main frame of the door these are two
by four by tens and those are gonna fit against the rail there and I’m gonna
show you how to cut a notch out of there so that we can attach carriage bolts and
I just wanted to make sure to pre-drill all this before I put the plastic on cuz
what if I slip up there and then I hit the greenhouse plastic I just you know I
didn’t want to risk it so I’m gonna mock up the whole doorframe take it down then
put the plastic on doing things a little bit out of order just because of the
timing of my help so what I’m trying to do is cut out a notch into this board the loop here and a touch caracal inside
of this so I’m going to take a measurement at the top here and that’ll
be where I cut the board to length and I’m gonna make another mark on the
bottom so that I I’ll show myself to cut out a little much so that a carriage
bolt can go through here the board all right so that’s a little mark that I
made so I’m gonna cut straight across here and then I’ll cut out a little
notch so here’s what that knotch looks like okay so I found my level with a
board I’ve got it all perfectly lined up and now I can drill my holes and then
I’ll know where to put it when I rebuild I’m gonna chop this corner piece off as
well because it looks like the plastic might rub on there since something else
is these labels so of course you want it you need to be able to read from the
inside that it says this is the inside and then these labels are basically in
the center a little bit off-center but you can use the labels to help you as a
guide to get the greenhouse pretty even so that you have even amount of slack
for each sidewall so something my friend Brian came up with was a good idea just
put the 3/4 inch conduit on top of the plastic and that’s just gonna help make
sure as we’re doing the wiggle wire we keep it nice and tight and even so we
did that on both sides I actually screwed up on this side I
took too much slack so I did take the wiggle wire out and then we put this out
to make it even and then you pull it to one side and you’re easily able to bend
it in and you push it to the other side and see how kind of snaps in there
and you’ll just wiggle it back and forth and I guess that’s how it got its name
and you’re just pushing it into the track okay so now what we’ve done is
we’ve got the wiggle wire on this ridge line at the backroads line and then the
bottom board back there so now what I need to do is cut this plastic off it’ll
be a separate piece that will attach later to the front door and then that’s
gonna allow us to do our roll-up sides next so we’ll attach
to the three-quarter inch conduit wrap it and then get it set on the crank so
because of the fence here it would have been really difficult to put the wiggle
wire in from the outside so what I did is I just folded the plastic under and
then put the wiggle wire in between that and it was really easy so if you’re in a
close quarter space that’s a good way to do it okay so we’re gonna do the other
roll-up side now and it’s gonna be a little bit tricky on this side just
because that tree is there but what we figured out is the best technique is to
start wrapping it on to the edge get it on there and then pull it back
and pull it tight and wrap pull it tight and wrap so before you start start
wrapping it make sure that your crank is gonna be able to fit there real easily
pull the plastic back a little cut it if you need to and on the other side the
pole is going to extend a few inches beyond the end wall as well here’s the
roll-up sides for the bootstrap farmer greenhouse how cool is this and now I can keep it warm at night
during the day when it gets hot I can lift it up and get a nice breeze in
there so these roll-up sides are gonna be very
important for me here in San Diego just because since we don’t get so cold
it’s nice to be able to control the side panel here I’m using five inch carriage
bolts for this okay so the next step that I need to do now is make my door
frame as square and level as I possibly can now let’s say this wasn’t perfectly
squares like this then when you open that door the doors also at that same
angle and it’s gonna hit the edge here it’s not gonna close correctly then all
this I’m taking uh some three inch screws driving into the baseboards and
we’re done and then we can just start building it out door I’m gonna build the
door just completely from this free wood fence siding and just make a really
cheap door into that so if I was going to do this again I did make a small
mistake because I you know I have no professional building experience at all
what I would have done is put the frame in first get that perfectly level then
measure out the baseboards to match because what I’m noticing is this one’s
good but this one if this board was another quarter inch longer it’d be more
level there’s that little gap I’m talking about so here’s my idea to fix
it I do have a little bit of gap here to put might run my carriage bolt through
right here and I’ll put it as close to the edge as I possibly can it will cinch
up this gap a little bit enough that it will make it much more level so I think
it’s worth it to do it okay so I just flipped it and nudged it over check that
out now we’ve got it’s almost flush and now I’m almost perfect level now because
we’re dealing with uneven ground it’s going to make it a little difficult to
make it perfect but it’s very very close so I’m getting this board completely
level and in line with this one so that I know everything is square and it’s
always best to drill pilot holes first to prevent any wood from split splitting
but I’m just feeling a little lazy right now I don’t want to have to get out the
other drill I think I’ll make it like a seven foot door just to be extra safe
ain’t say any big things need to go in or out all right now we got the header
on there or whatever that thing is called now I’m gonna be building a door
out of adjust the fence posts and as you can see the fence post only goes up to
about six feet so many like foot on there so I’m just going to take my
measurement so the whole length and then I’ll just add on another piece of wood
and to make it the full length and I don’t need to build some super strong
gnarly door I’m in San Diego we don’t have snow we don’t have extreme
temperatures so that something real simple like this will do the job so I
just went ahead and just built the door out without filming it so you guys can
see how I put it together here you know I just cut apart the fence board to make
it work these fence boards weren’t long enough so I just attached thing to
lengthen them and then so here’s the key things I wanted to show you guys here
and in the door design I put this diagonal piece from a recommendation
from a friend on Instagram brandman 1989 thank you so much for the construction
advice I put out a little Instagram story he’s like hey you should put
another brace on there it’ll help keep the door square so that over time as
you’re mu opening it as it’s getting wet as the sun’s beating on it it doesn’t
warp and become difficult to close so I followed his advice and put a diagonal
board on there and now I’m gonna be putting on the hinges and now because I
am using some crappier wood this stuff was splitting really easy it’s old you
know it’s been on a fence for I don’t know five to ten years or something
so to reinforce it here’s something a really great trick that you can do I
just this is a two by three and I just bolted that in with a two inch screw and
then oh that’s gonna do is make it very strong now
so now when I install my hinges then it’s going into the two-by-four and then
it’s going to go into the wood but it’s gonna go into that 2×3 so it’s a huge
chunk of wood to give it a ton of strength if I would just go into this it
would work and be fine but possibly over time it would get destroyed and the door
just won’t last as long so doing a couple simple things up front will just
make it a lot more reliable door I’m gonna you know mock these up pre-drill
all my holes so that nothing splits when I do this and then drive the screws in
and then I’m gonna come out I’m gonna have my wife come out and help me
install this because when we put on the hinges you need someone else to lift up
the door for you to give a gap at the bottom right so you can open the door
easily then I’ll attach the hinges at that time you can see the board down
here is is hitting there and that’s what’s preventing it so I’m just gonna
cut out a very small sliver off this thing so that it allows me to open the
door all the way sweeping there’s no there’s a bit of a
gap it’s not really a big deal because I’m in San Diego it’s only two three
months where we have cold weather and that small little crack isn’t enough to
matter I could have built this door better and I could have built you know
an inner frame so then it’s completely sealed but we don’t have snow we don’t
have crazy cold weather so that wasn’t like necessary for me so I didn’t go the
extra effort and I just built it as fast as I could
so now the final steps are to just get the channel on all the sides on the
doors and then it’ll be completely sealed in there and we’ll see how it
goes in summer I may not want to have an end wall on this side we’ll see I am
gonna put shade cloth and now that I’ve got the roll-up sides on there with the
shade cloth maybe that’ll be cool enough that even in a
hundred degree day it’ll be okay but I’ll have to see what the temps are
like what the humidity is like in there to really figure out if I’ll need to
make other adjustments all right everybody that’s gonna be it
for today’s video all about building the bootstrap farmer green house check out
their green house on all of their different farm supplies at bootstrap
farmer comm they’re fantastic company they even have their own podcast and
lots of different articles on their websites to help small farmers like us
I’ll put a link in the description to bootstrap farmer and this exact green
house for you so that you can check it out feel free to ask any questions you
have about the green house I’d be happy to answer this for you anything I can’t
answer for bootstrap farmer will jump in here and help us figure out the details
please like and share these videos with your friends consider supporting me on
patreon or donating a small amount to my paypal I have all my links in the
description everything goes help me making more and
better videos like it spend more time doing this for you guys as it takes time
away from my farm and generating revenue that way thank you so much for
supporting me and my mission of getting small-scale farmers started so that we
can start a small-scale farming revolution alright happy green house
building out there best of luck on your own green house and I’ll see you guys in
the next episode

32 Comments

  1. Nature's Always Right Author

    TABLE OF CONTENTS: See description for more info!
    Support the Channel on Patreon – https://www.patreon.com/naturesalwaysright
    Donate via PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/naturesalwaysright
    00:27 Introduction and Important Info
    1:18 What will I use the greenhouse for?
    3:54 Leveling the land, landscaping fabric and options for leveling
    4:57 Ground posts and leveling intro
    5:55 squaring the measurements
    6:36 Burning holes in the fabric
    7:19 Pounding the ground posts in
    8:03 Leveling the ground posts
    8:31 Discussing plumb line and ground posts at same height
    10:45 How to set up the plumb line level
    12:43 Extra parts you will need
    13:20 Talking total costs for kit and other parts
    13:38 Prepping top rail for bending into hoops
    14:20 MISTAKE: how to avoid bending hoops too much
    14:41 How to bend the hoops correctly
    16:14 How to unbend the hoops if you put too much bend into hoop
    16:25 What to do if ground is wet or loose and ground posts blow out
    16:47 How to insert hoops without hurting yourself
    17:38 Hoops all installed how does it look?
    18:31 Installing base boards
    19:28 Installing ridge pole
    20:40 Installing hip boards
    22:17 MISTAKE: How to fix uneven hip boards
    23:20 Installing channel for wiggle wire
    24:10 MISTAKE: The best way to install the channel to prevent tearing of plastic
    24:36 Setting up roll up sides 3/4” EMT
    25:14 Setting up Crank and guide rail pieces for side wall
    27:00 Setting up front and rear end wall, prepping for door
    28:04 Attaching channel to hoops
    28:48 Removing excess ridge pole
    29:02 Prepping door frame
    30:01 Prepping Notch for door frame
    31:06 Laying out the plastic tips for getting straight
    31:34 Bryan’s trick for getting plastic even before wiggle wire
    31:56 How to attach wiggle wire
    33:03 Trick for attaching plastic/wiggle wire in tight quarters
    33:22 How to roll up side wall and attach to crank
    34:03 Roll up sides in action
    34:31 Finalizing front end wall and door frame
    35:11 MISTAKE: Best way to create square door frame
    37:26 How I built my door
    38:44 Setting up door hinges
    40:17 How I will keep greenhouse cool in summer
    40:51 Attaching front end wall plastic and wiggle wire
    41:14 Final thoughts and recommendations for the greenhouse

    Reply
  2. Mark Neff Author

    Definition of a farm:
    A farm is a tract of land cultivated for the purpose of agricultural production. A farm is classified of having $1,000 or more of agricultural products being produced or sold. A Small Farm, according to USDA census is a farm that is 179 acres or less in size, or earns $50,000 or less in gross income per year.

    Reply
  3. beekeeper bear Sablon Author

    what up!!! hey I live in North Carolina and we are prone to hurricane. what do you suggest to do if such is the case? a hurricane comes or something? is there a hurricane proof kit or something? if I bought one of those, you think or what do you think? would be the best thing to do for me, I'm in 27944
    and moving is not an option, ATM, thanks pal! ,….Jon

    Reply
  4. Middle-aged MacDonald Author

    Good video. This is a bit trivial, and I didn't know this until I watched Dan's video from the "Plant Abundance" channel. I THINK your brace on the door is backwards? I think the weight of the non hinged side should go to the lower hinged side? It just stuck in my mind when he made a correction video. Probably not something to worry about unless it starts to sag. Here's his oops video. https://youtu.be/z7OtdRCDRD4
    Again, good job, and like you, I like to learn from watching videos. Good luck with the new greenhouse!

    Reply
  5. Vince Berardini Author

    Steven, My Old Friend…Very excited for you to FINALLY obtain your own greenhouse and enjoyed watching the enthusiasm and personal investiture and wish you a "Bountiful Harvest" !
    As you know from my own Youtube Channel "Gardening With Vincenzo", I also built my own 10 Ft. X 20 Ft greenhouse about 15 years ago adding water and electric and use regular timers for the 2 oil filled electric heaters at night since gets cold…(Zone 6 A) and inserted hooks into framing for hanging baskets (a Tip) (Maximizing growing potentials) and "layed" plastic coated chicken wire over my shelves for support and keeping things from "falling thru" the spaces ! ( I'll have many videos for this so give a watch if have time)!
    You are doing very well from the"humble" beginnings and have enjoyed "Watching You Grow" !
    Each growing season will become a learning lesson !
    Thanks for sharing and know that positive vibes from the North east are being sent your way !
    Thanks for sharing your journey !

    Reply
  6. Mark Probert Author

    Polytastic – I am glad to see you do this with your dad. I felt my 10 x 20 poly was not good enough and needed to get a 30 x 40 poly like other market gardeners CSA's in Wales UK. But seeing you do this build has given me encouragement to roll with my 10 x 20 in my back yard as nursery/micro's until I am established and can get other land space. Keep up the good work.

    Reply
  7. Oskar Lingnert Author

    Thanks for the video! I will put up one myself in a couple of weeks so this was very useful. Got me thinking about different details. One thing I noticed that you might want to change if you get problem to close the door in the future. The diagonal one should be placed the other way. This is so that side of the door that is screwed to the greenhouse will support the other side so that it woun't fall down towards the ground. (Hope my english was good enough to do it understandable.) Greetings from Sweden.

    Reply
  8. Jeremy Carlson Author

    Great video, sir. I'm not knocking what you've done with this comment because that was really impressive. But dear God man, there has got to be a moderately priced prefab green house that is way easier to build. Especially because this is not permanent.

    Reply
  9. John Devereaux Author

    Hello, hey this is just an idea but take a look at Patrick Dolans, One Yard Revolution vlog and at 1 minute 48 seconds check out the wooden support frame that he has inside his homemade hoop house. I think such a frame could be modified to make a series of seed tray shelves that would maximize the green house wall and roof space available whilst also maximising the available floor space. In other words, a person could probably get 10 – 12 or more shelves fitted to such a frame. I hope I made sense https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd-FOj7cuLc

    Reply
  10. Luis Gonzalez Author

    you're the man! You inspired me to start my hydroponic micro-green company and YouTube channel in 2019! My company Micro Roots gross sales was $15,000 💰 last month and we are projected to make half a million dollars in 2019. If anyone would like to check out my youtube channel Subscribe —-> https://youtu.be/Ne-HLrvSgtk

    Reply
  11. Bw Tjma Author

    May I have missed it in the video, did you mention as to why you chose the metal pipes as opposed to pvc? What are the differences as far as price, ease of install and durability?

    Reply
  12. David Biewer Author

    Awesome video! Love the info for sure but Wow!!!! That is a pretty costly “kit” for what you get! I built a 12 by 20 and had all the same stuff you did but had automatic vent with blower and thermostat, auto vents in the front irrigation system (misters) etc shade cloth for the summer, didn’t do anymore labor than you did and didn’t spend near that much money. I like bootstrap farmer for sure but some of their stuff is crazy high. Not trying to be negative but I didn’t realize how expensive their kit is for what you get.

    I would say in the long run it will be well worth it but just really high to get started. Heck I helped build a 24’ by 100’ high tunnel with roll up sides for just an extra $1100.

    Reply
  13. Wicked Jenn Author

    Very helpful! We have a old frame from a carport that had a white plastic cover but it got ruined from too many wind storms so we are going to use the frame for our green house. We have chickens too so I need protection from them. We haven’t made a run for them yet but I did watch your chicken coop/run set up which was awesome!

    Reply
  14. tannenbaum Author

    You might want install another 2×4 on each side as the weight of the door will make the single 2×4 bulge, eventually. Also, you could nail a 1x 2 on the inside top and sides to stop the door from swinging inside.

    Reply

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