How to Install Vinyl Flooring Over Tiles (Over Linoleum Tiles) – Thrift Diving



hey guys what's up Sarina pa here from thrift diving calm and today I'm super excited because we are laying new floor we have 34 cases trust me these were very very heavy 34 cases my wrist still hurts a vinyl plank flooring and this stuff is gonna go down over top of the linoleum tile that's in here now everything is painted fresh and I am just ready to feel like this is a nice beautiful welcoming lower level office space so the first thing we have to do is actually clean this floor we don't want to have any dirt on the floor any dust because if that gets into the planks it's not going to snap together very well so we got to do something cleaning first and then we're ready to get started so let's do this because I'm ready to see what this floor is given look like so let's jump into it right now so before we jump into the actual tutorial let me tell you why this flooring was perfect for my basement and why you might want to consider this – this is my life proof it's a they call it a luxury vinyl tile and what I liked about it is that I could put it directly over the basement floor I didn't have to add in the underlayment because you see it here already attached on the back that's the black rubbery type you know soft material that's on the back I also liked that it had different sizes of planks and so I could kind of figure out the pattern that I wanted to lay down and I liked that it had the various shades so it gave my floor a little bit more depth so if you want to install this over vinyl wood tile concrete it goes over it very well in its waterproof so it's not going to you know disintegrate if you have some sort of water leak in your basement you know big storm comes so let's talk about what you need once you decide you want to use this what you actually need to do first you have to take your measurement so for this you need the length of your room and you want to divide that by the length of the tile know the tiles I was using was forty seven and a half inches and that will give you the actual number of tiles or planks that you need per length of the row so for my basement I put the numbers in and came up with the fact that I need six planks six full playing and 0.99 of a another plank that would be plank number seven the reason why this is important is because you don't want to get to the end of the row and have a short piece you need to read the instructions before you get started but they say you want to have each of your boards be at least eight inches so the same is true for the width you want to take the width of the room and divide it by the width of the tile and that'll tell you how many planks you need to span the width of your room so my math showed that I needed fifty-seven point six four planks that means fifty-seven full width planks and point six four will be the size of the very last plank width now here's what we do at that point six four we times it by the width of the plank that will tell us in inches what the size of that last plank will be here's what's important about that if that number here in my case it's three point five two if that number is less than half the width of the plank so in my case it has to be at least two inches and 3/4 if it is less we need to make some adjustments so that first plank you laid down can't be a full plank you need to cut it down a little and make sure that it evens out the room layout otherwise you'll end up with a final piece that's one inch to inch and it'll look very weird we don't want our room to look weird all right so you need your square footage as well multiply the length and width of your room and add 10% for mistakes click calculate on the Home Depot website it'll tell you exactly how many cases you need step two you probably need to trim the molding around your door so line a piece of the molding up to the door trim and you want to trim it flush do a nice little flush cut or you can use a rotary tool I'm using a little handsaw here your door may need to be cut too if it doesn't you know if it doesn't clear the new flooring if it does take it off cut it with a circular saw but in this case all we needed to do is trim the trim around the door and the floor fits perfectly so for step three we are ready to plan our first row of planking and there's a few things you have to keep in mind this is the most difficult row to get started because it will shift around on you you aren't you're supposed to keep a 1/4 inch gap spacing along the perimeter of this you'll see here that I'm laying these quarter inch spacers but they were difficult to use they kept shifting around and I'm sorry my butt is in your face I didn't realize this until after I sat down to edit the video so we're just gonna have to look aside from my butt alright so once you lay your first row of flooring or plan it out this is what may happen if you get to the final plank on your first row and you notice that that plank is less than 8 inches then you have to come back to your first board like I did here and you need to trim that this one I trimmed to 14 inches and by doing that it allowed my last board to be greater than 8 inches so as confusing as that sounds just be sure to plan out that first row and if you need to make trims it's pretty easy to do if you have a speed square in a box cutter you're literally just scoring the top maybe two or three times and then flipping that board over and snapping it and all of my boards for the most part snapped right off a nice clean cut that could that cut edge is the cut edge that will go against the wall well with the quarter inch spacer alright so make sure that you leave that cut edge at the top and then you can finish completing your row you may find that it's easier to move that first row away from the wall a little bit and then once the entire row is complete then you can move it back into position now here's what's very important you're gonna need to use a tapping block now this is not a tapping block it was a piece of scrap trim that I used and it ended up leaving all of these gaps in the wood that tapping block is supposed to push these boards together so it's nice tight and secure and so make sure you're using all the right tools and materials you can find the materials list down below so let's talk about how you actually put this together this is a really secure flooring it's got these grooves that it just fits together like a puzzle and each piece is supposed to be angled at a 45 degree angle and then you slide it up until it touches the next piece and then push it down with your fingers and you might even hear a snap so then before you actually mallet it into position you want to use the mallet with the tapping block this helps to like ease out any of that space between the planks and you can see it coming together to know that it's tight but here's the thing it has to be right on the edge of the plank it cannot be against that rubber foam part because I made this mistake several times and look what happened it actually broke the edge of the foam so you don't want to do that because then you can't use that board so then once it's in position you can use your mallet and tap that seam nice and tight okay so now we can move on to step four which is planning out the other rows so here's what we have to keep in mind with vinyl plank flooring you want to make sure that your seams are at least eight inches apart so that means you're gonna have to stagger these boards now because we're using multi with planks it makes it a little different plus they're different colors and so you don't want to stack all the same colors together so take a little bit of time and just lay out a couple rows at a time making sure that you like where the colors are making sure that you like the seams and if it looks like it looks pretty good to you then you can proceed with actually laying them down now here's what you need to do in order to stagger your seams you will need to make some cuts at the beginning and end of your row so here's how I did my measuring I took that second board that I wanted to be in the row and place it on top to get an idea of where I needed to make that cut so in this case let's say I measure from the wall to my finger and that's 20 inches well then what I did was I flipped that tape measure around and measured from that end to where my finger was which was 20 inches for example and then made that cut so what this allowed me to do is to cut off the part that's closest to the wall which was the scrap part and the part that's cut that's what we want against the wall you do not want your cut piece anywhere on the other side because then you're not going to be able to connect it you need those little foam connectors so keep that in mind I guarantee you will cut at least one or two pieces and you're like oh I think I cut the wrong side it's very easy to do don't you know don't get all worked up if you do that mistake it happened to me a couple of times but that's how you measure and that's how you do it whether you're cutting at the beginning the row or your cutting at the end of the row you will need to make some cuts but again when you're making those cuts make sure that you know there is at least eight inches between those seams before you actually make your cuts this will save you a lot of scrap material and here's a really good tip if you've got a lot of furniture in your room don't feel that you've got to move everything out shift it over to the side of the room do you know if you feed a flooring and then once you've got enough space you can start shifting things back onto the new floor and this is actually good because it helps to hold the floor in place when you are tapping it trying to make sure that it's connected and here's another little tip try to get the kids involved get your husband your spouse involved I did it for the most part myself but when coach Joe helped he's only seven it actually did move a lot faster he clicked it together now trying to show him how to mallet it that part didn't work too well but he came behind me and tacked them down with the mallet and it went pretty quickly a lot of times the kid just got in the way they wanted to argue about who was going to use the mallet and then they wanted to have a dance competition so I just kind of joined in did my thing at the other end of the room and let them have at it but for the most part it was a fun time and when they did help it actually made it go faster all right so let's talk about the layout of the floor now the lifeproof multi-multi sized different color pack it requires a little bit more attention you know it's not all the same color so here's what you have to do and here's what I found worked well for me I grouped the boards as best as I could into different piles so you see I've got the ten inch boards the larger ones lying together the medium five and a half inch boards were in their own stack and then the skinnier four and a half inch boards were in their stack and so what helped as I mentioned before is laying out a few rows and then taking a step back to see does this look right are the light boards to bunch together or do maybe I need to space them out and so there's no rhyme or reason there's no right or wrong way to lay these boards but you want to make sure that that it looks good when you stand back your eye isn't drawn to one particular area that looks funny and so spend a lot of time doing that because you'll want to make sure you're not having to pull this up after you have made the connections on the boards you could rip that little phone part very easily if you make a mistake so by all means take time like I'm doing here to lay it out so that you don't make any mistakes so again I'm gonna cover how I planned out the beginning of a row so I lay down the boards that I wanted to come first again making sure that that seam is staggered I would lay the other board on top making sure there's at least eight inches between that one seam and the new seen and I would measure so in this case it was 12 inches we're good to go so I'd measure from the wall to where that second plank would start so we're at about 24 inches so I'd move this second plank out of the way take my tape measure and measure up from the bottom of the plank to that 24 inch mark so using my utility knife I just hold it there in place and then score it a few times using the Empire Square it's a little difficult to score this without an empire square you definitely need something to keep it straight you can use a ruler just make sure you're not freehand in it because it will move around on you now I'm really digging into the tile you don't have to do it that hard in that often one or two scores across the top it's unbelievable but it will still snap so if you turn it over hold your hand against the where the the scoring line is it should snap for you pretty easily and then we're just moving that up into position now I'm gonna cut the other board in the same position actually I think I've got this one at 23 and a half I'll score it a couple of times like I did the other board turn it over and snap it now we've got the two boards that we're going to use to start this new row so making sure that you keep a quarter inch spacer at the end of the row you'll put it in at 45 degrees make sure that it's in there nice and flat and if you've got it in there right it should lay flat for you if the board is raising up a little it means it's not connected very well and again you'll use your mallet and you're tapping block to give it a few taps along the entire width of the board the entire length of the board and you want to make sure again you're not tapping it on the edge of where that connector is so you'll attach the other board and here's something to be very careful of make sure that they are even where my left hand is make sure that they are nice and even because if they're not the other board when you attach it will not be even as well it will leave a gap so just be very mindful take your time and don't rush through it the next board should be going in pretty easily at 45 degrees and then slide it up until it touches the next board and gently put it down making sure that that seam is nice and tight and then you'll be able to use your mallet and you're tapping block as I've shown you before and then once those have been pushed together then you would just tap the seams and then that's it well that's that totally it because we still need to cover how do you make irregular cuts around corners because you will have at least a few corners in your home so we're gonna cover that just a moment but I wanted to tell you about the time you can expect for a project like this it took me about probably five to six days to do this you want to expect three to seven days depending on the scope of your project if you are removing baseboards you'll want to add in a little additional time for that if you're putting new baseboards on that will take additional time I wanted to put an additional coat of paint in my office so you want to do all of that before you put your floor down so let's move on to step 6 making irregular cuts around corners now I'm gonna share with you some things that I did right and definitely some things that I did wrong because you know how we do here at thrift I mean I got to show you my mistakes right okay so what I did was I laid the plank in place and marked where the edge of the wall was and remember we have to keep the quarter inch gaps in mind all around the perimeter we need that quarter inch gap so I mark the edge of the wall and then I used my tape measure and measure from that mark to the top and whatever that measurement was it needed to match where the measurement was on the floor with the other board great now we have a measurement from the wall to the plank now here I believe it was like five and a half five and a half and I subtracted a quarter of an inch for the expansion gap right now what I should have done was I should have rotated that tape measure and measured that five and a quarter from the other side of the board and not from the side to the left I should have rotated it around but look at what I did I didn't do that I actually just transferred that measurement right on to the board and that is going to cut out five and a quarter that's not what I want to do I want it to leave five and a quarter so I should have measured from my left hand side which as you're looking at this video that's your right hand side so guess what happened when I went to cut this with a jigsaw you'll see here it's actually making a nice clean cut so just to let you know you can use a jigsaw or you can use a like a dremel rotary cutter either works fine but you'll see here the part that's remaining is very skinny and of course when I go to fit it guess what it doesn't fit it's exactly what I did wrong if I taken that measurement from the other side it would have left five and a quarter so I made another cut and you'll see here that I've got a quarter inch expansion gap I think I do and it fits much much better than the previous board so once I got that into place I was able to angle it at 45 degrees push it down tap it into place and then use the mallet to secure those seams and it looked pretty good now the areas that are close to the wall you're not going to be able to use your tapping block so use a pull bar tap it a few times with your mallet and it should close any space that's remaining between the planks and here's another tip when you're cutting the planks at the beginning and at the end of your rows save those pieces that you cut because the piece that you cut at the bottom can be used as the starting piece for your next row at the top and remember we did all that math at the beginning of the project well this is why when you get to your final row you want it to be balanced you don't want to have a skinny piece of plank that's like one or two inches so this one we were able to use one of the skinnier boards and it looks great so now we are ready to finish off near the stairs and we've got a lot of irregular pieces so using the instructions that I gave you before that's how I made a lot of these cuts to get these pieces into place and the part that was most challenging was trying to cut around the doorway this was very difficult so I forgot that I needed to cut this doorway trim and I slid a piece underneath the doorway just to see if it was going to fit properly and then I took the measurements of the inside of the door this is the transitional flooring piece that needs to go down but it needs to be cut to length so I cut it at 31 inches with my jigsaw and then I changed the blade on the jigsaw to a steel or metal cutting blade this allows me to cut the little piece that goes underneath of the transition this will actually get glued to the floor I'll show you that in just a moment but this is what it will look like and it'll go over the edge of that flooring all right so next I needed to create a template this was very challenging I didn't know what cut needed to be made in order to fit underneath of this trim and not poke out so I used scrap piece of paper and just drew a little quick template and then cut it out with my jigsaw and I had to make a series of cuts here so it looks a little funny but sometimes you're gonna get those kind of cuts underneath of the doorway but the main thing is just making sure that when you slide it underneath of the trim you don't see those cuts so I slid it underneath and it looked pretty good but my concern was whether I was going to be able to connect these boards together remember in order to connect them generally we have been putting them at a 45 degree angle which helps to lock the boards together and then we're tapping them into place to secure them well here we didn't really have that maneuverability so you'll see that I'm grabbing the board's in the middle trying to just pull them as much as I can at a 45 degree despite being underneath of the trim and then I use the tapping block to finish it off and surprisingly it actually clicked together so I was surprised it turned out so nice and finally my final piece I had to make a couple of additional cuts here you see the the wood that's that's there by the by the wall but it wasn't a problem just use my jigsaw to do that and and use the pull bar to secure it into place now the final step was to put some construction adhesive on the bottom of the metal part that we had cut this is the transitional piece to cover up the the new flooring and the old flooring and I just held it in place for a little bit and then taped it down I didn't put anything on top of it but you could put some weights or something so it doesn't slide around and I started putting in some of the PVC trim I'd removed all the previous baseboards because they were wood and I didn't really want wood down in a basement that could possibly have moisture so the PVC works really well I just used two inch Brad nails with an 18 gauge brad nailer used a little bit of trim sealant some caulk in order to cover up those seams and I didn't show it in this video but eventually I go back and add a little wood filler filler to the nail holes sand that smooth and then painted it so let's have a look at what this basement looks like this is what it looked like before and once the flooring was all done this is what it looked like after I could not wait to get the furniture in here and just make it look so amazing and let's talk about price how much this actually cost me well I paid about two thousand dollars out of pocket for the vinyl plank tiles and the trim was about $200 I removed all of the wood trim and replaced it with moisture resistant waterproof PVC trim which i think is excellent for basements and bathrooms and then the caulking the paint those materials probably were about 50 to 100 dollars now let's keep in mind if I had paid Home Depot to install this it would have cost probably about $2 per square foot well I had about six hundred square feet so that would have been will you do the math twelve hundred dollars at least a thousand to twelve hundred dollars so doing it myself saved a bunch of money and it looks awesome love it so you got to come back for the next video because I'm gonna show you this big hole that was in my basement ceiling and it took about three years for me to get around to fixing this but I'm gonna show you exactly how I fixed so if you want to connect with me on my blog go to thrift diving com subscribe and I'll send you five ebooks printables checklist things that you will get just as a thanks for subscribing and be sure to check out my project gallery you'll see some more of the projects I've done and come back give it a thumbs up share it with your friends I love having you here and thanks for sticking with me for 22 minutes see you 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25 Comments

  1. WOW! This turned out absolutely fabulous. Love that you showed your mistakes also, we all make them. Really love how it turned out. Great job Serena, on the floor and the tutorial. Thank you for all the tips as well.

    Reply
  2. Thank you. I am considering this flooring and was wondering how hard it might be for me to install myself. You did an wonderful job explaining possible errors that can happen and how to trim and cut the planking. I feel this is a job that I can do myself. Now to decide the color that I want to have in my home.

    Reply
  3. N B

    You did a marvelous job of explaining this! I don't mind the booty shots, either. 🙂 Also, I hope I never have to lay flooring but if I do I think I can after watching your tutorial.

    Reply
  4. Good job…as a 40 year flooring guy let me say, use a metal hammer on your tapping block it will not bounce and force them together much easier…some vinyl planks go together differently so read the box instructions..as said curved blade,i think the pattern of the thinner planks should not be doubled up but should run thin plank a row or two of thick planks then repeat at different intervals….women, you never have to apologize for your butt…

    Reply

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