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Innovative Alternatives To Crop & Stubble Burning (आगपेटीमुक्त शिवार)


No More Burning of Crop Residue Greetings from Chaturrao and Chatura. Today, we are going to tell you a million dollar story! Once we have harvested and threshed the crop and the field is littered with the residue
and stubble of the crop, what do we do with it? To keep our farm clean,
most of us burn the crop residue. What a terrible sight it is! It looks like a wildfire! Smoke envelopes everything in its claws. This not only adds to the pollution but also results in great financial losses. But friends, I have also seen farmers who do not burn the remains of the crop. Instead, they use them in such a way in their farms that they yield them great returns. The remains not only benefit the crops but also increase the yield. Simply put, after harvesting and threshing the crop, whatever remains is actually a gift from nature to us. So friends, don’t ever call it garbage. From today, we will call it crop residue. When we don’t burn this crop residue, our fields remain free of fire. For such a fire-free field, five points have been allocated
in the Water Cup, Ms. Chatura. Wow, Chaturrao! Let us now see how to keep our fields fire-free. This rich resource that we get
after harvesting and threshing the crop is useful in many ways. Let’s look at three of these useful, beneficial and easy-to-accomplish ways. You can choose any one of these options that you find most suitable to you. And in case you have large amounts of crop residue in your field, you can opt for all three options. Option 1. Mixing the crop residue into the soil. After harvesting the crop,
cut the crop residue into small pieces with the help of a slasher or a tractor-driven mower. Now, scatter this shredded residue
evenly all over your field. Now, with a plow or a Rotavator, mix this residue into the soil. This shredded residue gradually decomposes into a good quality organic compost and it helps increase the organic carbon of the soil. The more the soil organic carbon, the higher the water storage capacity of the soil. Did you understand the first option? Let us now move to the second option. Option 2. Mulching. In this option too,
first cut the crop residue into fine pieces with a slasher or a tractor-driven mower. Then, make heaps of this
finely cut residue in your field. We are going to use this residue in the next season for mulching after sowing the crop. Now, you must be wondering what mulching means. Although it sounds complicated,
the process is actually very easy. Chaturrao, please explain! Gladly. Friends, once the crop turns around 21 days old
during the next season, spread this shredded crop residue
between two rows of the crop. This process is called mulching.
Isn’t it easy? Mulching is nothing but covering the soil. What exactly does it achieve? It reduces the rate of evaporation of groundwater. This helps retain the moisture in the soil. This is immensely beneficial to the crops. Similarly, the organic material used for mulching decomposes within three months
and turns into a great fertiliser. And as Chaturrao said before, it helps increase the soil organic carbon. The higher the soil organic carbon, the higher the water storage capacity of the soil. Another important point is this mulching also prevents the growth of weeds. It also results in a higher growth
of micro-organisms and earthworms. These micro-organisms are useful to us as they help in the process of
decomposition of the crop residue and consequently, improving the fertility of the soil. Friends, in case you have a horticulture farm, spread this shredded crop residue under the tree leaving a gap of one feet from the trunk. Spread this residue only as far as
the shade of the tree spreads directly under the tree. Keep some important points in mind for this mulching. 1. The layer of the mulching should be around one inch thick for crops while for fruit trees, it should be about
one to three inches. 2. While mulching, please make sure that it should not cover the stems
of the crops or the tree trunk. This keeps the soil around the roots loose. 3. Even in case you do not have
any crop residue left in the farm, the process of mulching is very useful. You can instead use any organic material
such as dry leaves, hay, sawdust, vermicompost, NADEP, compost, etc. for the process of mulching. Now comes the most effective use of this crop residue. Option 3. Biodynamic Compost. This biodynamic compost is a
huge source of organic carbon. Ms. Chatura, you’ve made a list of the materials needed to prepare biodynamic compost. Where is the list?
Here it is, please note down. 1. Crop residue 2. Cow dung 3. Green weeds and leaves of trees
like Neem, Gliricidia, Pongamia, etc. 4. One kg S9 powder The S9 powder is a mixture of nine types of useful micro-organisms. It is easily available in your nearest agriculture centre. This mixture is sold under different brands by several companies in the market. 5. A watering can 6. Three buckets 7. Two spades 8. A two metre long stick 9. Four to five tubs 10. Water 11. Chalk powder for marking 12. Two empty one litre bottles 13. Measuring tape Thank you, Ms. Chatura. Let’s now see how to prepare biodynamic compost using the materials that Ms. Chatura just mentioned. In order to make the biodynamic compost, we will first need a place where the land is flat, dry
and where shade is readily available. If you’ve stored the crop residue
near such a place, you are good to go. If not, bring it there. We have to make two heaps at this place. The first heap is made up of the dried crop residue – Heap 1. The second heap consists of
green weeds and leaves of trees such as Neem, Gliricidia, Pongamia. This is Heap 2. In case you don’t have these things in your field, you will have to fetch them from elsewhere. Sprinkle water over Heap 1. At the selected place, draw a five metre long and two metre wide
rectangle with chalk powder. Place a two metre long stick
at the centre of the rectangle vertically. Sprinkle water over the rectangle
so that the soil inside will get moist. Remove the upper layer of the soaked Heap 1 and make a 1.5 feet thick layer
with it inside the rectangle. Prepare a slurry of cow dung and sprinkle it evenly over this layer just like we sprinkle it in our courtyard. Prepare a solution by mixing one kg S9 powder
in 10-12 litres of water. Sprinkle two litres of this solution evenly
over the layer we have just made. Now, make another layer on it
with the green stuff from Heap 2. This layer should be around 1.5 feet thick. Again, sprinkle two litres of the S9 solution
equally over this green layer. Now, with the remaining crop residue from Heap 1, make another layer about 1.5 feet thick. Repeating the same process, make layer upon layer
of the cow dung slurry, the S9 solution and the green stuff from Heap 2 respectively. Finally, sprinkle two litres of the S9 powder solution evenly over the green layer. Once this structure is complete, apply a thick coat of cow dung slurry mixed with clay on the entire structure. Friends, while making these layers upon layers, do not exert any pressure over them and do not climb onto them. This might cause the oxygen to escape
and delay the process of composting. Now, leave this compost heap alone for about a month. In this period, in order to maintain
the moisture within the compost heap, sprinkle just a little bit of water,
once every couple of days. If you notice any cracks develop on the heap, fill those with cow dung slurry. To avoid such breakage,
you can cover it with a wet gunny sack and sprinkle water over the gunny bag
once in a couple of days. Correct! And don’t break this stick sticking out. It is there for a reason. In about a month, this heap
sinks automatically by about 1.25 feet. We can notice it easily with the help of the stick. This sinking indicates that
the composting is going on very well. Therefore, never break this stick. After one month, turn this compost heap upside down and pile it back into a heap. Also, cover this new heap
with a thick coat of cow dung and clay slurry. After one more month,
that means after two months in total, this heap will produce a great quality
biodynamic compost fertiliser. If we make this fertiliser in winter instead of summer, it takes three months instead of two to be ready. In winter, you will need to turn the heap upside down
after one and half months instead of one. The rest of the process remains the same. Friends, you can make as much
biodynamic compost with this method as the amount of crop residue in your farm. For a single compost heap, about 10 quintals of crop residue
and about five quintals of green leaves are required. Chaturrao, can you guess
how much biodynamic compost we can obtain from one heap? How much? 1 to 1.25 tonnes. Awesome! Once we use this
biodynamic compost in our fields, the amount of organic carbon in the soil
shoots up rapidly. The higher the organic carbon, the more fertile the land
and the higher its water storage capacity. You can’t even imagine what amazing effect
it will have on your crops. Additionally, your field becoming a fire-free field, you will get a bonus of five points in the Water Cup. Yes! This is indeed “A Single Offer, Double Profit!” Friends, let’s take a pledge right now that this harvesting season, we’ll make our field a fire-free field.
Indeed!

25 Comments

  1. Prashant Gadekar Author

    आग पेटी मुक्त शिवार
    पर्याय१ -पिकांचे अवशेष मातीत मिसळणे
    पिकांचे अवशेष बारीक करून मातीत मिसळणे.
    पर्याय २-मल्चिंग (आचादन )
    पर्याय ३-बायोडानामिक कमपोस्त

    Reply
  2. sunil Ghadekar Author

    For more information about these agricultural practices you should contacts with padmashri shri. Subhash palekar guruji who developed Zero Budget Natural Farming(ZBNF) which practising more than 40lakhs farmers all over the world.

    Reply
  3. Ankit Aggarwal Author

    These are really good suggestion but there is lot of hard work which farmers already do and they are not ready to do extra work when burning is such an easy way out. they believe that it doesnt spoil their soil as well which is incorrect. Why dont we approach no-till drills and we dont need to touch these stubble anymore. No till drills are very powerful to do direct seeding of the next seed without any trouble.

    Reply
  4. Sanjay Jadhav Author

    Ya babtit Subhash Palekar yanchya Zero Budget Natural Farming cha abhyas karne jaruri ahe. Aaj 50 lakhachya wer shetkari ya tantracha avlamb karit ahe. Himachal Pradesh, Tamilnadu ya rajyanni ter 100% vishmukt Naisergik tantracha avlamb kele ahe.
    Mala vatata ki Amir khan ani Padmashree Subhash Palekar yanchi lavkarat lavkar bhet houdet ani Maharshtra sakat sampurna Bhartacha vikas houde.

    Reply

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