Next Gen Quantum LED Panels: Cheap, Easy & Super Efficient (Spider Farmer Grow Light Review)

Hi YouTubers! I’m Al Gracian, from Quantum styled LED panels! These are some of the latest in LED tech offering
nice boosts in efficiency. They’re not bogged down with cooling fans
or unneeded light switches. Some kits are DIY, requiring assembly. But what if you just want to buy something
and plug it in? Well, today we’re looking at the Spider Farmer
SF-1000. We’ll look at some specs, some PPFD readings
and compare them to some older LED systems. Wanna know how to decode those mystical micro
mole per joule ratings? I’ll also tell you what I didn’t like about
this seller’s product claims. So let’s dig in! Here’s everything that comes in the box. Hanging hardware, including two rope hangers. A manual and this snazzy card. There’s no significant assembly required. With the SF-1000 we just attach the hanging
cables and we’re all set! Now for these diodes. Some low-end lights might only offer a single
diode color. But Spider Farmer uses a custom blend, optimized
for plants. A nice broad range of colors, rather than
a few isolated bands. Overall, the light looks fairly white. So it’s easy on the eyes. And it’s good for accurately monitoring plant
health. We have a nice MEAN WELL Driver, securely
fastened to the board. A simple package, but the components are well
assembled. No exposed wires. And the board has a rubbery coating, protecting
the diodes from splashes and such. I ran this light for 4 hours in a room that
was 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The back of the aluminum board reached temperatures
from 130 degrees at the corners, to 140 in the center under the driver block. So this does heat up and you should be careful
when handling and positioning the light. What really counts though is how much light
this thing throws. And this light is BRIGHT! Cameras just can’t do it justice. But lumens are for humans, right? So let’s take some objective measurements. My Apogee SQ-520 quantum sensor gives much
more accurate readings when comparing custom LED spectrums. I’m taking PPFD spot readings along a 4 inch
grid, inside a reflective wall measuring 28 by 28 inches. Spider Farmer supplies a PPFD map at 18 inches. So I’ll check that. Also 24 inches and 12 inches. Right away I noticed some strong consistent
numbers at 24 inches. With an average PPFD of 375, running this
light at a cycle of 18 hours on and 6 off would produce a DLI of 24.3. And that’s actually quite respectable! I’m phasing out this old LED, so I’ll
take some readings for comparison. They’re both pulling about 100 watts at
the wall. But this UFO is older tech. It has to divert power to a cooling fan and
in general the LEDs just aren’t as efficient. At all of these distances, I see much stronger
numbers from the Spider Farmer LED. Efficacy. A crucial spec when comparing two grow lights. How efficiently does a light convert electricity
to plant-usable photons? Are you familiar with “lumens per watt”? Well, in horticulture we can compare the micro
moles per joule. One joule per second is a watt. So this “j” deals with the electricity used. And this unit? This is the PPF, the amount of PAR photons
being emitted, as measured in micro moles. The higher the number, the more photons your
light pumps out per watt of power consumed. Higher is better! The SAMSUNG Diodes enable this light to boast
an efficacy of 2.7 micromoles per joule. For an entry-level, consumer-grade grow light,
that’s really good! A couple years ago LED manufacturers were
excited to offer 2.0 or 2.2 ratings. And even right now, some older LEDs might
still be 1.8 or less. Does that mean this 100 watt LED could replace
a less efficient 1000 watt model??? Well, that’s what the seller had said in their
Amazon listing. And I’m gonna say ABSOLUTELY NOT! That’s an overinflated claim and here’s
why. To achieve the same PPF output as a 1000 watt
model, you need to replace an LED that only yields 0.27 micromoles per joule! Look at these rather dated specs showing some
reference numbers from a few year back. Even then, LEDs were anywhere from 0.89 to
1.7 micromoles per joule. So what’s a realistic example justifying an
upgrade? Let’s say that you have an older LED, rated
at 1.8 micromoles per joule. It’s 150 watts. Multiply them for a total output of 270 PPF. This SF-1000 draws 100 watts at 2.7, so it
too would output 270 PPF. Thus, this newer Spider Farmer should be able
to replace a 150 watt LED or maybe a little higher, perhaps 250 watts. But not as high as a TRUE 1000 watts. To test this estimation, I dug out a third
light. This 200 watt LED from the 2016 era. And surprisingly, the Spider Farmer 100 watt
LED had HIGHER numbers than the 200 watt model! It was close, but the Spider Farmer pulled
out ahead. So yes, I would say you could replace a 250
watt model if it’s from 2016 or older. The problem is, many LED sellers give inaccurate
wattage specs! They might call their light 1000w and then
say that it only draws 200 or something much lower. These are false wattage specs. After posting my Amazon review, the seller
emailed me. Their product listing was referring to competitors
like that: Sellers who trick consumers by calling their light 1000 watt even though
it isn’t. I agree, the Spider Farmer LED could easily
replace many of those models. Just look at the actual wattage consumed and
ignore those fake wattages. Spider Farmer has now tweaked their listing
to make sure consumers aren’t deceived. (It’s nice to see an LED seller who has
some integrity.) So what specs should we look for in a listing? A good seller will list their micromole per
joule rating. Without that, it’s hard to compare LEDs even
when you get true wattage specs. Going further, look for PPFD or light intensity
maps. They should show more than just a center reading. Ideally, we would also see values at a few
distances. At a minimum, we should see spectral graphs,
efficacy ratings, and we absolutely need accurate wattage specs! No more of those made up, overinflated wattages! So what are my final thoughts about the Spider
Farmer SF-1000? I think it will be an excellent upgrade that
will fit perfectly in my small growing space. It’s a great option for lettuce and for nicely
sized seedlings over a 3 foot by 3 foot area. If you’re growing high end fruiting or blooming
plants like mari- TOMATOES, it could get you by with some entry level performance in a
2 foot by 2 foot area. But their listing also shows a two panel and
even FOUR panel version which would really get the job done for larger, high-end applications! Be sure to watch my other video which goes
into depth on the SF-2000. Recently, I was offered TWO one thousand dollar
brand name quantum style panels in exchange for a video review. When I compared my Spider Farmer LEDs I found
them to be a MUCH better value. Two SF-2000s draw nearly the same combined
wattage as the competitor, but the price was dramatically lower! Free light or not, I’m not interested. I’m gonna stick with my Spider Farmer LEDs. The Spider Farmer brand seems to be new. So there might be concerns about support issues. But they offer several forms of contact info. With a 3 year warranty, they seem willing
to stand behind their product. Hopefully, this light will last a long time
and I won’t ever need to get in touch with them for ANY issues! I’d like to thank Spider Farmer for contacting
me. This is an UNPAID review. But I did get the light at a reduced cost. And I’m glad to say, thus far, I’m not disappointed! Check the description for a link to their
product on Amazon if this seems like a good choice for you. Oh, and if you’re a seller trying to tempt
me with one thousand dollar grow lights in exchange for a review, please email your requests
to [email protected] Thanks for taking time to watch. I hope this info has helped you out. Please subscribe if you haven’t already. And as always, Happy Gardening!


  1. AlboPepper - Drought Proof Urban Gardening Author

    Check out my follow-up video on the
    Spider Farmer SF-2000:

    Learn more about artificial lighting and plant growth:
    What is PAR Light?
    The impact of Red or Blue light on plant growth:
    To avoid Tip Burn:
    Light Cycles & DLI:

    For some tips on avoiding LED scammers, read more:

  2. AlboPepper - Drought Proof Urban Gardening Author

    $50 Amazon Gift Card! Recently I encountered a situation which caused me to tweak & reupload this video. Even though it had just hit 149k views! To rebuild the video's performance, I'm awarding a $50 Amazon gift card to the FIRST YouTube viewer who can reasonably guess why I re-uploaded the video.

    Each viewer gets ONE guess which much be posted in the video comments. You'll need a valid email address for finalizing the reward. (Sorry but my family members don't qualify to enter.) See if you can guess what happened!

  3. Hustle Bones Author

    Simple really, they aren't fake claims. They say blurple 1000-1200w, as in what you said, actual true watts being usually around 150w at the wall. Just meant to deflect people buying shitty blurples with "fake wattage outputs" and more towards QB's.

  4. Shane Author

    So I’ve found a set of chips for an array that puts out 3.06 umol/J but the company is apprehensive about selling to me. Still trying to work with them for a large order…smh

  5. Edie Boudreau Author

    I thought you talked previously about 2'x2' panels for seedlings but now talking about 3'x3' panels. Then other options for larger panels up to 4'x4'. Interesting.

  6. Karl Becker Author

    I would say the reason you re-posted was due to a real Email address at the end instead of: [email protected]

    AS for me I don't know why I watched the whole video because I will probably never purchase a light for indoor growing! I do appreciate your thoroughness however and I hope those that do grow indoors get some good help from you.

  7. Carolyn Qammaz PA. Author

    I tried to understand and keep up with what you saying BUT man it's hard and in the end I was even more confused. Sorry, this video is good but to tech for my IQ. Bummer as I really need to understand this stuff before I buy

  8. PhenoMorph 420 Author

    I find it kind of funny calling them next gen when a whole swath of us have been growing with these qb style lights for several years now…..

    ….that said I am still glad Mars is finally getting on board, so many more people get to enjoy them now without either ridiculous prices or being stuck ordering from Alibaba (though I have no issues with it)

  9. lightworker303 Author

    Doing my own research, before reading reviews, and watching videos I chose to get 2, Spider farmer 2000 lights. Everything I keep reading backs up my research, that I made the right choice.

    They seem like great lights with very low power consumption!

  10. 1 Trillion Views Author

    AlboPepper – Drought Proof Urban Gardening
    I currently use a metal halide for vegetative and then switch to high pressure sodium for flower, old school stuff, i know. I have a question though. If i made a separate room for vegetative phase and used this light (or more likely the SF2000) would the plants be able to handle getting moved under a 1000W HPS after the LED? My ballast is electronic with adjustable wattage, so could i just reduce the watts for the first couple weeks if this would be too stressful? I ask because I'm wanting to make another room for vegetative to cut down grow time for my mariTomatoes. Thanks for your time and advice.

  11. Julian Kirby Author

    Why did you edit saying marigolds? Don’t suburban people with drab houses buy those by the full tray to make their yard less ugly every spring?(this is meant as a joke for those that don’t know)


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